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Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora (5.14d)
Sport climbing can be a real bitch. Just when you think you your project on lock down, you punt off the top. Then you spend the next week making worse and worse progress. When you hit rock bottom in...
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Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing
Grade debates are inherently pointless. Arguments about whether something is 5.12d or 5.13a (or whatever) are as unproductive as debating what a specific color looks like. Yes, while each and every...
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This Week in Climbing
I live on the Western Slope of Colorado, 25 minutes from Rifle, and about equidistant to at least 1,200 other high-quality sport and trad routes that nobody even bothers checking out simply because...
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Daily Stoke: Chris Sharma Does Catalunya’s Best 8c+ Off The Couch
Here’s a great little video of Joe Kinder and Chris Sharma, two huge inspirations to me as well as two really good friends, climbing another stunner in Cat. No real story line. No mega-deep plot. Just...
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Leading a Wide Life, Even in Death
Because climbing is a part of life, death is a part of climbing. With all these so-called “adventure sports,” death can begin to feel quite common. The longer you climb, the more dead people you know....
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Gym to Crag: The Real Deal
You’ve heard of farm to table, but all across the country, there’s a new artisanal movement taking place among rock climbers. It’s called gym to crag, and depending on your tastes, it either smells...
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Battle of the Boards: Moon, Hang and Campus
Last fall, with a baby on the way, I experienced the urge to “nest.” Only, instead of that urge manifesting itself through cleaning binges, rocking chairs, cribs, and a plethora of cute elephant-themed...
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This Week in Climbing
Spending June in the Red River Gorge sounded about as delightful as taking a Bikram’s Yoga class in a tick-infested swamp. Alas, I found myself in Kentucky for about 10 days this month on an actual...
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Brette Harrington’s Solo Soul Serenity
The way some climbers are promoting themselves through social media often leaves me feeling that our sport’s soul is in rapid decline—something I know isn’t true, but still can’t help feeling cynical...
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Best Climbing Rituals
What I love about rock climbing is what most people love about climbing. Purpose in the form of meaningful goals. The reward of progressing up through the grades. The excuse to travel and see rare...
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Climbers Don’t Need the Olympics
The inevitable news that climbing is getting its long-awaited turn in the spotlight of the reality show that is the Olympics has finally come to pass, and I, for one, could not be more indifferent. As...
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Rifle 911
Many years ago, on a hot summer day, I was climbing with my friend Dan. I took off my shirt off before climbing. Sorry, it happens. “Dude,” Dan said, his eyes transfixed on my unimpressive pectoral...
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Perfecto Mundo: Chris Sharma’s Next Proj
Margalef is the best climbing area in Spain that I’ve been to. The limestone is just incredibly varied—with caves, tufas, pockets, and these strange calcium deposits that look like a melted candelabra....
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Adam Ondra, Yosemite, and a Dawn of a New Era
After climbing my first El Cap route, I stumbled like a zombie back to my campsite Camp 4 at 9 p.m., hoping to just crash into my sleeping bag. Instead of finding my Walmart children’s tent with all my...
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Climbing’s Best Accessories of 2016
Although many of today’s most relevant climbers were born after this movie was made (sigh, to be young again!), one of my favorite scenes from “Spaceballs” is when Mel Brooks, as “Yogurt,” a spoof on...
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When Do Aid Climbs Stop Being Aid Climbs?
When Peter Croft and Johnny Woodward first freed the Moonlight Buttress in 1992, they rated it 5.13b, making it one of the hardest big-wall free climbs in the world. Over the next decade, the...
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Daily Stoke: Alex Honnold’s Heavy Metal Speed Solo
Just yesterday, I was just lamenting about all the lame climbing videos, especially those on Instagram. I swear to god, yesterday I watched three different Instagram clips of these Mickey Mouse pro...
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The Best Fake Climbing News 2016
2016 will go down as the year that bullshit reigned, spin was spun, and America went Full Retard (well, at least 46 percent retard). Am I mad? Yes … yes, I am. I feel an angry four-year bender coming...
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Fight Back and Become The Change You Seek
2016 is over, and it was a bleak year indeed, but there was some last-minute good news thanks to President Obama’s declaration of two new national monuments, as well as the protection of large parts of...
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Climbing for Likes: the Social Media Trap
“I’m not going climbing till I hit 12,000 followers,” Mike chortled. He was being facetious. But he was also gazing into his iPhone as if it held the secret to growing a bigger penis. “Mike,” not his...
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