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The Grapes of Whatever
For all the stories about lives lost to climbing, there are many, many more lives that have been saved by climbing. To access this post, you must become a supporter of Evening Sends. Please consider...
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Green Check Yourself
Years ago, a climber passed through Rifle who was one of the most obnoxiously strong and boastful climbers I’d ever met. He literally did the meme: how do you know a Rifle climber sent his project?...
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Action alert: Write World Climbing and tell them to ban Israel
On July 23rd, World Climbing — the international governing body for competitive climbing, formerly known as the IFSC — will hold an Extraordinary General Assembly vote on whether to suspend the Israeli...
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Five Minute Fingers
Years ago as a gumby in my very first year of climbing, I was looking through guidebooks in Rock and Snow in New Paltz, New York, when a random old-schooler started spouting off about how he had...
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What’s in my sport-climbing kit
I’ve been climbing long enough to have opinions about gear, and occasionally some of those opinions are even right. What follows is the stuff I actually use to go sport climbing, perform my best on the...
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This Brussels climbing gym just canceled a World Cup over Israel
Eleven days before a youth World Climbing competition was scheduled to begin, Le Camp de base, a Brussels climbing gym, canceled the event over the question of Israel’s participation. This marks the...
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Boycott World Climbing. Ban Israel from Competing.
There’s a particular kind of exhaustion that comes from watching people find elaborate new ways to do nothing. For three years, I watched people ignore a genocide. I watched them scroll past videos of...
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The Ascent Will be Televised
Prior to the Dawn Wall spectacle, climbing had enjoyed various Punxsutawney Phil moments in which our sport would peek out its cute little head, and the world would pay attention for a day, come away...
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Netflix should pay me—not Alex Honnold—to free solo a skyscraper
Many years ago, during the Petzl RocTrip to Getu, China, I was hanging out at the crag when I got approached by two young Chinese women. Gesturing in broken English, they asked to take a photo with...
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The IFSC Must Ban Israel From Climbing Competitions
A few years ago, Palestinian climbers had access to roughly half a dozen crags in the West Bank. Today, that number has essentially collapsed to just two. This tightening over Palestinian climbers...
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Fall Gear Refresh: Picks for the Best Climbing Season
I once heard the prolific first ascentionist, king of king lines, and stoic sage Chris Sharma reflect on his own mortality by thinking in terms of the number of fall seasons he might have left on...
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Scarpa Drago XT: The Best Drago Yet
My current project has been a full-on footwork clinic—heel hooks, toe hooks, tenuous smears, and edges, all in one super steep line. It’s the kind of climb that demands total trust in your shoes, and...
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The Best Climber in the World is an Influencer
Influencers get mad when you call them influencers. It’s pretty funny, actually. We’re not dumb! We see you … you’re an influencer. Who cares? But also … that’s what you are. Why are you trying to act...
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Mammut Crag Sender 9.0: A Quiver of One Climbing Rope
I have a hard time coming up with a reason for why I’d ever want to climb on anything other than the Mammut Crag Sender 9.0. I’ve been using this rope for the past few years, and I’m on my second one:...
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Arc’teryx Konseal: the most durable and stable approach shoe yet
Arc’teryx first released the Konseal, its rugged approach shoe, back around 2018, and it was one of the brand’s first forays into footwear. I remember testing a pair back then and felt it felt a bit...
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Personal Grades, Slash Grades, and the Illusion of Difficulty
I’ve been thinking a lot about climbing grades lately—what they actually mean, and whether they’re as set in stone as some people believe. Two essays I read recently got me down this rabbit hole. One...
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Has World Cup Bouldering Setting Gone Too Far?
Part of how I maintain my sanity is remembering that not everything needs to be about everything. It’s perfectly acceptable to find yourself hurtling towards potential nuclear oblivion yet still...
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Arc’teryx Skaha: Super Light and Supportive for Sport Climbing
When it comes to harnesses, it’s pretty easy to find a middle-of-the-road rig that does it all pretty well and comes in at a good price. But when you start shopping around for higher performance in a...
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Petzl Neox: Better than the Grigri?
When I heard Petzl introduced the Neox, a new belay device that looked like a Grigri, but wasn’t a Grigri, I was skeptical. In fact, I made a joke by congratulating Petzl for joining every other gear...
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Made from Recycled Ropes: the Mammut Sender IN
I grew up thinking drugs were bad and recycling was good, and it’s only later in life that I’ve learned that both of those things aren’t exactly true. Recycling, in an ideal world, makes sense, but...
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